Vincent la Chapelle’s 1733 Recipe for ‘Apples the Portuguese Way’
“Hollow your Apples and stick into them preserv’d Lemon-Peel. Then take some Cream called Patissiere, Biskets made with bitter Almonds, and Marmelade of Apricocks, and mix it all together. Lay this Composition in the Bottom of your Dish, and put over it as many of your Apples as your Dish will hold; fill up afterwards the hollow Part of your Apples with the rest, strow it with Sugar, bake it of a good Colour, and serve it up hot for a dainty Dish.”
Vincent la Chapelle, The Modern Cook, Vol 3 (1733)
Monsieur Vincent la Chapelle was a French master cook of the eighteenth century who specialised in providing high-class cuisine to the aristocracy. His three-volume work The Modern Cook was first published in English in 1733 and was dedicated to the Earl of Chesterfield, who was la Chapelle’s patron at the time. Its contents largely reflect the upper crust status of la Chapelle’s clientele, with dozens of recipes that call for the sort of ingredients likely to be only attainable on a budget far exceeding that of the average household; there’s a whole chapter of “Courses of Thrushes, Lapwings, Teals and Turtle Doves”, and that’s followed by another of “Woodcocks, Snipes, Geese and Larks”.
Luckily the recipe for ‘Apples the Portuguese Way’ doesn’t call for anything that would require a gamekeeper or specialist fowl merchant, just apples, Luckily the recipe for ‘Apples the Portuguese Way’ doesn’t call for anything that would require a gamekeeper or specialist fowl merchant. Just apples, Crème Pâtissière (a thickened, sweetened custard), preserved (candied?) lemon peer, (crumbled?) almond biscuits, and apricot marmalade (or jam, presumably).
It’s probably that last ingredient that gives the recipe its “Portuguese Way” name. Marmalade, or marmelade, or marmalute, is believed to derive from the Portuguese term marmelada, which originally referred to a quince paste, or quince cheese.
Making apples the Portuguese Way sounds like simplicity itself, although as no quantities are specified by la Chapelle, some experimentation may be required. Method-wise, the non-apple ingredients are mixed together and ost of the concoction is used to line a baking dish. The hollowed-out apples are placed on top, their cavities filled with the rest of the mixture, sugar is sprinkled on top, and then the whole lot is baked until the base is cooked through and the apples are tender.
It sounds great to me. I reckon it could be adapted to a GF requirement quite easily, especially if you baked your own almond biscuits, or made up an oatmeal-based flapjack mix instead. Another delicious addition to the canon of baked apple puddings, alongside the likes of Black Caps, Green Caps, Nottingham Pudding, and no doubt many more.
What do you think? Does this sound like your sort of baked apple dish? Would you change any of the ingredients, or add anything extra? Do let me know, via the comments.
