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Cordon Apple Tree Update – Autumn 2025 Edition

When it comes to growing apple trees in a garden or on an allotment plot, I am a huge fan of the cordon-trained form – small, single- or double-stem trees, often grown to around two metres tall – for all sorts of reasons.

Illustration of 'Cordon Trees' from 'Profitable Fruit-growing for Cottagers & Small Holders of Land' (1891) by John Wright
‘Cordon Trees’ from Profitable Fruit-growing for Cottagers & Small Holders of Land (1891) by John Wright

Cordon-trained trees are compact, so you can fit six or seven into a one-by-three metre space; easy to manage, so although they will need some sort of support structure, pruning them is a breeze, and picking is simplicity itself; and when they’re mature, and in a good year, which 20025 most certainly has been for many different kinds of soft- and top-fruit, they can be highly productive, easily providing between a dozen and two dozen apples per tree, or more of course, if your cordons are particularly long.

This might not sound like much in comparison to the crop from a standard, or even a bush-form tree. But if you are able to plant six, or maybe twelve, or even twenty four different varieties, and can harvest a dozen or so apples from each, that’s going to be plenty of fruit to keep you going. And with careful variety selection you can fully extend the fruiting season, so you could potentially be picking a regularly changing roster of fresh apples from early August through to November, December, or even the new year.

Compared to having one or two larger trees producing a single variety each, having to deal with the inevitable gluts of apples and masses of windfalls in a good year, and the trickier pruning requirements of larger trees, and cordon-trained trees really are a great option for a smaller space.

Case in point, productivity-wise: the image at the top of this post is of a row of six cordon trees on my allotment plot. They were planted in February 2021, so they’re not quite five years in the ground. One of them, a graft from a local seedling tree, has had to be re-started a couple of times due to canker infections and is still too small to bear fruit, and one other, a ‘Wareham Russet’ dropped its fruit in the heat of summer, before this phot was taken in mid-September, but as you can see, the other four have done rather well. That’s the good news, and there’s more details below. The not-so-good news comes at the end of the post…1Drama! Suspense! Jeopardy!

‘Delbard Jubile’ (?)

'Delbard Jubile' apples growing on a cordon apple tree.

I don’t have a definite i.d. for this apple, hence the (?) – it was supplied as ‘Greensleeves‘, which it most definitely isn’t – but after a bit of detective work via the usual apple identification methods I came up with the 1960s French variety ‘Delbard Jubile‘ (a.k.a. ‘Jubile’ or ‘Delbard Jubilee’), which looks like a pretty good match to me.

It’s now a month since the photo above was taken, and the majority of the eighteen or nineteen apples on this single-stem cordon tree are still hanging firm, and they have quite a bit more red colour on them now:

October 2025 - Apple 'Delbard Jubile (?)'
Apple ‘Delbard Jubile’

It’s a decent cropper – at least a dozen good-sized apples this year – and hopefully those fruits will stay on the tree until the end of October and should keep well into November, maybe even December.

‘Rajka’

'Rajka' apples growing on a cordon apple tree.

‘Rajka‘ is a fairly modern Czech variety that’s meant to be disease-resistant, and produces good-sized, super-shiny, bright red apples that with supermarket looks and a rather supermarket flavour.2Let’s just say it gives off distinct ‘Braeburn’ vibes. Which is fine, of course, if you like that sort of thing, and in the middle of March or April, with nothing much else around, then it’s better than nothing. But at this time of year, with so many other varieties offering much better flavour? Meh.

October 2025 - Apple 'Rajka'
Apple ‘Rajka’

This single-stem cordon tree has produced seven apples this year, and they were nearly all still hanging firm a month after the photos above were taken. Another useful late-ish variety, if you’re just looking for something averagely crisp, juicy and sweet.

‘Duke of Devonshire’

'Duke of Devonshire' apples growing on a cordon apple tree.

We’re in heritage territory with ‘Duke of Devonshire‘, a classic cooking variety first raised at Holker Hall up in the Lake District, back in 1835. It produces small-medium-sized fruits rather than Bramley-sized big ‘uns, making them ideal for quickly coring and roasting or baking, maybe stuffed with oatmeal and chopped dates3That’s the fate that most of mine have in store, and a delicious fate it will surely be..

This single-stem cordon produced around two dozen apples this year. Most of them dropped when Storm Amy whipped through a couple of weekends ago, and I picked the rest shortly afterwards.

‘Winter Gem’

'Winter Gem' apples growing on a cordon apple tree.

I have, in the past, been guilty of apple snobbery4Who am I kidding, I’m still an apple snob. But these days I’m a much more refined apple snob, so that’s okay… in the form of the assumption that heritage apples are generally better than more modern ones, and that anything bred and raised after WWII must have been done so purely to meet the aesthetic and/or cold-storage demands of the supermarkets.

‘Winter Gem‘ is the apple variety that changed my mind. A 1970s introduction, when fully ripe and ready – which in our neck of the woods is definitely mid-October – they’re aromatic, deeply flavourful and, in short, an absolute joy to eat. There, I’ve said it. A modern(ish) apple that stands well above quite a few heritage-types in my estimation.

This single-stem cordon produced about sixteen medium-large apples that survived Storm Amy but were falling from the tree this week under the influence of no discernible breeze whatsoever, so I picked the remaining few before they dropped and bruised.

The Not-So-Good News

As I mentioned in last year’s cordon update, one of the major perils of growing apple trees on an allotment site is the near-impossibility of avoiding apple canker infections.

Wherever there are un-tended apple trees on un-tenanted allotment plots there are almost always going to be canker lesions spreading their airborne and/or waterborne spores around. If your tree becomes vulnerable to infection due to any sort of wound, even a broken off bud in spring, then there’s a chance that canker could take hold. Then, depending on where canker takes hold and how bad the infection is, there’s a chance that it could spell the end for a cordon-trained tree.

Which, very sadly, is exactly what’s happened with both the ‘Rajka’ and the ‘Delbard Jubile’ shown above. The ‘Rajka’ tree is in the worst shape, with the main stem almost completely girdled by the canker:

A 'Rajka' cordon apple tree, almost girdled by apple canker, front and rear view.
Apple ‘Rajka’, cordon tree, almost girdled by apple canker, view from opposing sides

I think, given the amount of damage that the tree has sustained and the position of th infection just above the graft union, that this is definitely going to prove fatal for the ‘Rajka’. I’m not particularly upset though, given my lack of enthusiasm for the quality of the fruit, so I won’t be too sad to cut my losses, replant the space with something else, and hope that another infection doesn’t occur.

The ‘Delbard Jubile’ is in slightly better shape, but I suspect not for long:

A 'Delbard Jubile' cordon apple tree, infected by apple canker, front and rear view.
Apple ‘Delbard Jubile’ (?), cordon tree, infected by apple canker, view from opposing sides

It looks pretty bad from the first angle, and whilst from the other – which was taken at a later date, after I’d done some emergency re-propping to prevent the tree toppling over under the weight of the fruit – you can see that there’s still some intact wood at the moment, but you can also make out a reddish-brownish stain under the bark. I don’t think it will be too long before this stem is girdled as well and, as this apple isn’t one of my favourites, flavour-wise, I won’t mind cutting my losses and replacing it with something tastier.

The Best of the Rest

I do have a fair few more cordon apple trees on my plot – thirty-seven in total at the moment, with more to be planted out next year, and more to be grafted as well – but most of them are still to young to produce much fruit. The two oldest cordons on the plot – a ‘Keswick Codlin’ and a ‘Tydeman’s Early Worcester’, both of which were planted in 2019 and both of which have grown into double-cordon trees – produced well this year, but they are early-ripening varieties, so their fruit has been and gone by late August. I also enjoyed a few apples from our ‘Saint Edmund’s Pippin’, and ‘Pitmaston Pine Apple’ trees, and several very flavourful ‘Tupp’s Favourite’.

'Tupp's Favourite' apples growing on a cordon apple tree.
Apple ‘Tupp’s Favourite’

And there are still seven or eight fruits on the ‘Knobby Russet’, which are meant to be ready round about now, but show no signs of wanting to detach from the tree just yet. Everything else either produced one or two fruits, or nothing at all, which is fine, as they’re mostly still very much at the early development stage.

How about you? Do you grow cordon apple trees? Do you prefer them to larger, bush or standard trees? What do you find are the main benefits and drawbacks? And how well have they fruited this year? Do let me know, via the comments.


Footnotes

  • 1
    Drama! Suspense! Jeopardy! ↩︎
  • 2
    Let’s just say it gives off distinct ‘Braeburn’ vibes. Which is fine, of course, if you like that sort of thing, and in the middle of March or April, with nothing much else around, then it’s better than nothing. But at this time of year, with so many other varieties offering much better flavour? Meh. ↩︎
  • 3
    That’s the fate that most of mine have in store, and a delicious fate it will surely be. ↩︎
  • 4
    Who am I kidding, I’m still an apple snob. But these days I’m a much more refined apple snob, so that’s okay… ↩︎

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13 Comments

  1. I grafted ‘Bardsey’ a bit back at NFG and it has come on really well, and the apples ths year have been really good (in N Yorkshire).

  2. Hi Darren , another very interesting article. I’ll be planting this years grafted maidens as cordons in my allotment in a few weeks and would like your opinion on the angle of the cordon. The usual advice is 45° but this can lead to them having to be propped up . Any advice?

    1. Thank you Richard. Planting-wise, anywhere from 45° to 60° is probably fine. Or you can plant them upright if you’re planning taller cordons and would like to give them a growth-boost to begin with, as vertical stems put on more extension growth due to the balance of plant hormones. I did read an article in an R.H.S. Fruit Year Book from the 1940s that talked about lowering the cordons as they get older, but I’d say that’s optional and very much depends on the amount of space you’ve got. Mine seem fine at around 60°(ish, very approximate).

      1. Cheers Darren. Yes, I think around 60° would be best. Gravity and fruit weight
        ( fingers crossed ) will probably bring them down a degree or two.

  3. Good Morning
    I currently have 6 stepover apples and 2 stepover pears approx 5 years old on my allotment which are all doing well I would like to grow some cordon apples, can you advise on purchase and planting these please.
    With Thanks
    Anna Arrowsmith

    1. Hi Anna – That sounds like just my kind of allotment plot!

      Cordon-wise, as long as you can get hold of ‘maiden whip’ trees on dwarfing rootstock, either M9 (semi-dwarfing) or M27 (full dwarfing), depending on how tall you’d like them to eventually get, and ideally trees that haven’t been leader-pruned to remove their main growing tip, those would be ideal for planting and training as cordons. Any reputable fruit nursery should be able to supply this type of tree, or advise you of someone else who supplies them if they don’t sell them themselves.

      The other option is to graft your own trees, which means they’ll take a couple of years longer to fruit, but you’ll definitely be able to train them as cordons as they grow.

      You can plant cordons quite close to each other – around 75cm to 1m apart is ideal – but they will need some sort of support structure to keep them aligned. I use fence posts, and I did try wires, but found it near impossible to keep them taught, so I’m switching to lashing bamboo canes to provide the horizontals. Hopefully I’ll write up a blog post on that when I get around to it.

  4. Very interesting, thanks for taking the time to share. Would you consider grafting on to the rootstocks of the Rajka and Jubilee once the “scions”have been removed and the canker hopefully with them? Feels like it would be good to capitalise on established stocks but is it too much of a risk? Thank you.

    1. Hi Anna – That’s definitely an option, yes. It will very much depend on the degree of infection. If the canker seems to have spread into the main stem – I’ll be able to tell if it has by looking out for dark brown staining in the wood as I cut away the infected portions of the tree – then I won’t be able to use the rootstock. But if it’s clean then I will try rind-grafting new scions to the stock and see what happens. I’ll probably still uproot them and grown them on in pots to start with though, and put a couple of new cordons in their current place.

  5. Very interesting, Darren, thank you. A couple of varieties there that I will now avoid due to the canker. Grenadier is meant to be quite resistant, its why im using it as the trunk for a family tree attempt.

    1. Hi Russ – To be honest, I’m not sure whether those varieties are particularly prone to canker, or if they just succumbed because there’s so much of it around on our allotment site. But as I mentioned, neither of them impressed me much, flavour-wise, so I’ll not try to dissuade you from avoiding them. Thanks for the tip on the ‘Grenadier’. We have a tree of that at work, I might graft a bit up, see how it does.

  6. Hi Darren
    Our Grenadier trunk is resistant so far, touch wood, got the idea from a commercial research paper , on page 7, Grenadier is VL (very low) for canker. Its only a cooking (poor eater) apple but its not, its fruit im after
    https://www.niab.com/sites/default/files/imce_uploads/FruitMembership/Pests%20and%20Disease%20Control%20-%20Diseases.pdf

    On subject of family trees, I harvested the Medlars that were grafted 2 years ago onto a conference pear. I asked your advice at the time, which you provided thank you. The one graft has produced 7 nice medlars. Very pleasing as wouldnt want to waste a full tree space on medlars but one branch on the pear is nice to have as something different. These ones taste very similar to dates.
    Thinking of grafting on a couple of quince to one of the pears this year, as again dont want whole tree but couple branches with some fruit be nice. Presume they are graft compatible as both same family ?

    1. Cheers Russ, that’s some really good info. I’ll give that a proper read-through when I have the time. Very glad to hear that the medlar grafting worked as well. Quince is often used as rootstock for pear, so yes, I’d assume they were compatible the other way around. Sounds like a very interesting family tree you’re developing there.

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